Konya, when you look at the a whirl of their individual

I t ‘s the cardiovascular system out-of Turkey. Konya, a community out-of a million souls, squatting slap in the middle of Anatolia’s insane plain, surrounded by unlock, limitless prairie. Turkey’s most culturally conventional city, Konya appears to start with to-be a location off tight headscarves and you can foreboding beards, from ostentatiously observed pieties and you will forbidden beers. But discovering Konya is not difficult – for right here, at the heart of one’s old town, inside the tomb off turquoise ceramic tiles, try Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is one of the planet’s really comprehend poets. During the his life, and since his death when you look at the 1273, pilgrims came to help you Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb was Turkey’s next really-decided to go to customers interest pursuing the Topkapi Castle when you look at the Istanbul. His followers manage (whilst still being manage) dump by themselves inside trance and you can dance, sometimes rotating such as for example passes all round the day.

Such whirling dervishes are now actually the icon out-of Turkey’s tourist strategies, and you can sip teas on your Istanbul hotel reception watching some worst bloke during the a tall beige noticed cap whirling to possess the enjoyment. Into real deal, whether or not, been heree to Konya and you also come to Turkey’s spirit. Within the Rumi’s terminology:

There can be an enormous, unbelievable the latest civil auditorium where so it sensitive spinning peoples ballet is actually did, and any quantity of charming sleek-eyed mystics into the carpet shops, cafes and you may gothic bazaars, the happier so you can receive you to an exclusive zikhr

“Anybody who you may be, already been Even although you can be An enthusiastic infidel, a great pagan, or a beneficial fireworshipper, started All of our brotherhood isn’t certainly one of depression you has actually busted Your own vows away from repentance one hundred moments, Hvordan mГёte Russisk -bruder already been.”

Just about every year just like the 1983, I’ve been upcoming into the two mil-or-therefore tourists just who go to Konya annually. Most are Turkish, while most Iranians (just who allege Rumi because their own, just like the he authored in their language and you can was born in east Persia) in addition to result in the pilgrimage.

In place of and make Konya a stop into a coach journey, I suggest being for most weeks, taking in the feeling, dining several of Turkey’s best mutton, seeing the most readily useful Seljuk frameworks and – maybe – shedding in love with Rumi. You can fly in the affordably off Istanbul, that there’s also a good scruffy, atmospheric instruct, or appear by road. Konya is during effortless started to of one’s cavern dwellers and you will carpeting suppliers regarding Cappadocia.

Rumi arrived here given that a beneficial kid, when Konya got become a community for a few,000 many years. It had been mainly based because of the Hittites, have been been successful from the Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the newest leaders off Pergamon and also the Romans, which known as place Iconium. Saints Paul and Barnabus both preached right here, however, from the 1071 new Seljuks, good Turcoman tribe, have been in control, and their architectural history suffers.

Its Karatay Medrese off 1251 is actually a work of art away from ornate tiling and unified domes. It is today the newest Art gallery away from Ceramic tiles and you can Ceramics, whoever articles maintain the vibrancy and you will strike they’d whenever basic fired. Close by, this new Ince Minarali Medrese has started to become this new Art gallery away from Brick and you will Wood Carving, and is way less dry than I’ve managed to get voice. These two structures whet your appetite to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, additionally the stunning Sahip Ata mosque: as opposed to much of new Muslim community, inside the Poultry you’re motivated to see mosques, whichever your spiritual choice.

At junction of one’s old city and its particular unsightly the fresh neighbour ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the brand new city’s vantage point, whoever gorgeous ebony pulpit and you may delicate prayer-market come from 1155 (the newest advanced is actually finished in 1221). This new boulevard radiating from here provides you to Rumi’s tomb, from which more afterwards. Rumi may Turks as the Mevlana (new Sainted That), and after this Konya is actually thrall so you’re able to Mevlanamania.

Rumi try a mystic, an effective Sufi saint who enjoyed all the religions, and whoever individual faith are like

Whenever i very first appeared, Mevlana’s supporters, brand new Mevlevi, was basically a prohibited organisation, accepted simply for their “folkloric dancing” and whirlings. Meetings occurred covertly, illegally.

I mentioned food, as well. Konya’s lamb-centric cooking is very good. Etli ekmek is actually a lengthy, narrow move-up pizza pie give which have delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab try a lamb shank, extremely reduced roasted and you will supported toward a cushion from cash which have a nice yellow onion. Ideal was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and you may do-it-yourself natural yogurt are paradise-produced.

Thus, wondrously provided, in accordance with of numerous glasses of nice tannic tea inside you, create your cure for Rumi’s tomb. You join the awestruck, the fresh new interested and fervent. A mystical twinkly light plays towards tombs out-of Rumi and you will his followers. The latest structure are embroidered with calligraphy, and ceilings was an excellent kaleidoscope regarding perfectly executed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included when you look at the greatly padded cloth of silver, and you will seems to radiate light and you can tranquility and you will mercy.

A number of your fellow pilgrims usually comprehend Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Most take pictures, although this is purely forbidden. You’ll find people who weep silently, and people who make fun of out loud; individuals who reflect all day, and people who rush by way of. Are typical went, to have the following is like.

Playing on the side and you may insinuating by itself in the understanding is the ney, an excellent reed flute. It sounds eg breathy air, it is really the voice out-of flames, hence rises and you may falls into the us all. This is not some sullen spiritual moaning, however the sound of craving, regarding communion, of cardiovascular system. You have got it – it is soul music, also it most supplies you with. Therefore started.

Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies in order to Konya thru Istanbul out-of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, regarding ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul to help you Konya by the railway can cost you throughout ?24 go back, or about ?36 get back by coach. Resort Balikcilar keeps rooms or about ?70 (and also caters to cool beers). Lodge Dergah (+ninety 332 351 76 61) rooms to ?20. Passes to see this new spinning dervishes try free from brand new customers work environment, about Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum from the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges individual spinning and you can zikhr regarding ?30pp.